I knew right off at Baselworld a year ago that this is really a watch that I wanted to spend time with. But while many of the new releases are coming to advertise over the summer months, this watch wouldn’t be landing wrists until much latter in the year. I had to be patient. Eventually though, a set of Railmasters made their way to HODINKEE HQ, and I understood it was worth the wait.I opted to devote my week primarily using the edition of the Railmaster you see above, with the black dial along with the stainless steel bracelet, even although I did wear the grey dial variation using a leather NATO strap for a day or two only to have the complete experience.The Seamaster Railmaster comes in a 40mm stainless steel case that measures a hair over 12mm thick. The outcome is something which feels very sturdy equally in the hand and on the wrist without being excessively thick or chunky. You’re not likely to mistake this for a classic watch by any means, however that is not the point. What makes the measurements actually do the job though is the sense of proportion. The way the bezel is incorporated into the case is simple but effective and the length of the lugs in connection with the size of the situation makes it feel as a streamlined, no-nonsense package.The finishing on the Railmaster’s instance is practically totally unique in today’s watch universe. There are no brightly polished surfaces in sight. None. I would describe this as sitting somewhere between a bead-blasted appearance and a real directional finish. You definitely find some grain, particularly on the sides of the scenario, but it is not dramatic, and that I get the sense that the watch will age exceptionally well, taking scrapes and marks. The jagged lugs are quintessential Omega and to me they’re essential to creating this layout work.
Like the 2003 version, the brand new Railmaster is part of this Aqua Terra lineup, therefore it utilizes a variant on that twisting lug case. This is a departure from the original, but it’s an appealing modern upgrade. Measuring 40 x 46.6 x 12.48mm (to the peak of the domed sapphire) with 20mm lugs, the Railmaster is a pleasantly stout watch with a very wearable size. There is a whole lot of metal around the dial from a thick bezel, chapter ring and high heeled mid-case that produce appealing proportions along with the illusion that it is a bit smaller than it is. It’s also simply very solid looking giving it a reassuring feel. Strangely, other Aqua Terras are 41mm, making the Railmaster a little unique in the line.From above, those magnificent twisting lugs actually steal the show. While Omega is not the only new to have used this design theory, it is definitely associated together as the Speedmaster has featured a similar layout because ’64, and I believe they work fantastically on this watch. I’m actually glad they didn’t go to the first straight lug case you’ll find on the 60th Anniversary LE, since this feels more modern and aggressive.From the sides, you’ll discover that the instance is actually rather straightforward. The sides are flat and lack break lines or ornamentation, but this is made up for in the finishing. The profile is straightforward as well, with the mid-case running directly across the wrist, turning ever so slightly for ergonomics. The broad design that runs the case border, which is part of what creates the twisted lug, adds just the ideal number of geometric detail.Interestingly, the whole case is brushed including this bevel, which on additional Aqua Terra versions is polished. While the comparison of endings would make these curves pop more, the brushing is fantastic so that you do not really miss the contrast.
We all consider dive significant and chains chronographs as instrument watches, but the Railmaster was a instrument watch of another kind: It was an watch for scientists that could resist the magnetic fields encountered in the laboratory. As you most likely know, magnetism can wreak havoc to a mechanical watch, distorting the balance spring and affecting its ability to maintain a stable frequency, and so keep accurate time. The CK2914 utilized a gentle iron inner case as a Faraday Cage and a thicker dial to protect the movement from outside magnetic areas of strengths as much as 1,000 Gauss. Omega wasn’t the only watch maker creating this kind of watch. Likewise, IWC has got the Ingenieur, which really came before the Milgauss or the Railmaster, debuting in 1954. By that time, IWC had a history of creating anti-magnetic watches for pilots, so the Ingenieur seemed a logical next step. Two decades later, it might get an overhaul by Gerald Genta in the form of the Ingenieur SL and now the brand has kept the line alive as a collection of racing-inspired watches, though that’s a story for a different time.While technologically advanced and practical for a very special kind of wearer, the more Railmaster wasn’t a top seller for Omega and the version had been retired in 1963, only six years after its launching. You need to remember, this was the era of typewriters, rotary phones, and manual transmissions — see wearers weren’t contending with a universe full of electronic equipment, all of which create some amount of magnetism a mechanical watch needs to deal with in 1 way or another.
Like the 2003 model, the brand new Railmaster is part of the Aqua Terra lineup, therefore it uses a version on that twisting lug case. That is a departure from the original, but it’s an attractive modern update. Measuring 40 x 46.6 x 12.48mm (towards the peak of the domed sapphire) with 20mm lugs, the Railmaster is a stout watch with a very wearable size. There is a lot of metal around the dial from a thick bezel, chapter ring and high heeled mid-case that create appealing proportions along with the illusion that it’s a bit smaller than it is. It’s also simply very strong looking giving it a reassuring feel. While Omega is not the only brand to have used this design concept, it’s definitely associated with them since the Speedmaster has showcased a similar design because ’64, and I believe they work fantastically with this particular watch. I am actually glad they did not go to the original straight drag instance you’ll find on the 60th Anniversary LE, since this feels more contemporary and aggressive.From the sides, you might find that the instance is actually quite straightforward. The profile is simple also, together with the mid-case running directly through the wrist, turning ever so slightly. The broad design that runs down the situation border, which is part of what generates the twisted drag, adds just the ideal number of geometric detail.Interestingly, the entire case is brushed like this bevel, which on other Aqua Terra models is polished. While the contrast of finishes would make these curves pop more, the brushing is fantastic so that you don’t really miss the comparison.
It’s a cool look, however, the black dial only felt more well-tuned. This was the year when Omega introduced the Speedmaster, Seamaster 300 and Railmaster. The first two are probably best known, the Railmaster is somewhat longer a ‘collectors just’ piece these days. But that’s the opinion we are covering in this review. The 60th anniversary edition that’s, that premiered last year.You’ve all seen the Omega 1957 Trilogy box set with reedition of the 3 legends (if not, click here). This view was there for scientists and engineers,The instance of this Railmaster was antimagnetic, which made it absolutely usable in an environment where it needed protection from magnetic fields. But, Omega was not the only brand which developed such a timepiece. Both IWC (Ingenieur) and Rolex (Milgauss) needed a piece of the market. While undoubtedly the Railmaster CK2914 has been the least favored of the 3 versions, some legendary timepieces still found their ways to the historybooks before Omega discontinued them in 1963. The dimensions of this case are technically identical to the vintage pieces. It is 38mm, something that you rarely see as highlight from a brand nowadays. It wears and looks amazing, even on a larger wrist such as mine (7.5″) regardless in the event that you have it on bracelet or strap. The lug width is exactly the same 19mm as the first Railmaster CK2914. In fact all three models share the same lug width. It is a mixture of brushed (sides) and polished (high in the lugs) parts.
In 1957, Omega published the very first Railmaster, the reference CK2914. Most of us consider dive watches and hearty chronographs as instrument watches, but the Railmaster was a tool watch of another kind: It was an watch for scientists that could stand up to the magnetic fields encountered in the lab. As you likely know, magnetism can wreak havoc to a mechanical watch, distorting the balance spring and impacting its ability to maintain a secure frequency, and thus keep accurate time. The CK2914 utilized a gentle iron inner case as a Faraday Cage and a thicker dial to shield the motion from outside magnetic areas of strengths as much as 1,000 Gauss. Omega was not the only watch manufacturer producing this kind of watch. Likewise, IWC has the Ingenieur, which actually came before either the Milgauss or the Railmaster, debuting at 1954. At the time, IWC already had a history of creating anti-magnetic watches for pilots, so the Ingenieur seemed a logical next step. Two decades later, it might find an overhaul by Gerald Genta at the form of the Ingenieur SL and now the brand has kept the line living as a collection of racing-inspired watches, though that is a story for another time.While technologically innovative and functional for a very specific type of wearer, the more Railmaster wasn’t a top seller for Omega and the model was retired in 1963, just six years after its launching. You need to remember, this was the era of typewriters, rotary phones, and manual transmissions — watch wearers weren’t contending with a world filled with electronics, all of which generate some level of magnetism a mechanical watch needs to deal with in one way or another.
The past few years are particularly interesting ones in the watch world. As watchmakers old and new work to find ways to appeal to a new generation of clients with different needs, needs, and behaviors in relation to the previous generation, they have attempted quite a few plans. There are people who believe straight vintage re-issues would be the way to snag that fledgling collector that are comparison shopping from a vintage Sub; there are those who think going high-tech will convince somebody that mechanical watches may still go toe-to-toe with smartwatches as a solution for the future; and there are individuals who pick taking the best of these approaches to create products that feel both relaxed and contemporary.Omega will be, occasionally, all three of these watchmakers. You will find watches like those from the Trilogy collection which are literary element for part recreations of bits from the record at one end of the spectrum and watches such as the cutting edge Speedmaster X-33 in the opposite. But, sitting in the middle, is the brand new Seamaster Railmaster. No watch better exemplifies this third method of watchmaking, which in once nods to the past while also creating something new that could never have been envisioned half a century ago. This watch draws on a collector preferred in the 1950s, but you don’t have to understand a single thing about Omega’s background to get everything from this Seamaster Railmaster. It is that all important thing — just a really great watch.
The new Railmaster has a Master Chronometer motion inside, which far surpasses the original watch at its goal, but doesn’t require any protecting, thus can be on full view. Here, showing the grade 8600 could have felt just like the opinion (and Omega) celebrated the achievement more. Additionally, the Omega grade 8XXX series chance to be somewhat trendy looking.The dial of the Railmaster takes the initial design concept of this watch into new and intriguing land. It has the most distinctive elements of the original, but mixes in some new details making it ride involving a diversion and a modernization. The dial surface is the very first thing will catch your attention. The outcome is unlike other dials I’ve come across, and it’s very enjoyable. The brushing is competitive and extremely random, making a lot of variation across the surface in both depth and tone. When light hits the dial at different angles, it changes wildly.The faded black coloring is unique as well. It is a weathered color using a little bit of metallic sheen, although it is known as black I would argue it’s really a milder graphite gray, using an almost inky, purple undertone. It’s subtle, but at some angles there’s unquestionably a color for this, which increases the lively light play from the graining.Pulling in the original, the primary indicator consists of daring triangle markers for the hours–short and broad at five, six, nine and 12; and long and thin for the rest. The triangles are lumed and characteristic “vintage” khaki lume (Omega actually uses the phrase “classic” to explain it). The implementation of those markers is quite exceptional. First, they seem self-evident, and that is because they’re actually recessed, coming only up to the edge of the major dial surface.
|Location||United States of America, Massachusetts, Boston|
|Power reserve||55 h|
|Case diameter||38 mm|
|Center Seconds, Luminescent Hands, Chronometer, Limited Edition|
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Omega 184.108.40.206.01.002 Railmaster 1957 Trilogy Limited Edition 22010382001002, limited to 3557 pieces, stainless steel on a stainless steel bracelet, automatic Omega Master Chronometer caliber 8806 movement, 55-hour power reserve, center sweep seconds, matte black dial with vintage cream-colored lume, luminous broad arrow hands, acrylic crystal, water resistant to 60 meters, diameter: 38mm, thickness: 12.8mm, like new with original box, watch roll, extra strap, strap change tool, and papers dated September 2017. Email us about this watch Trade for this watch